Cheerful Curmudgeon

A complete lack of ideas and the power to express them.

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In Gratitude for Your Support

May 2, 2026 Art Zemon 6 Comments

man's legs with typical bicyclist's tan: dark knees, white thighs

After finishing my St. Louis to New Orleans (STL2NOLA) bicycle tour on Thursday, I took an Amtrak train to Carbondale. Candy picked me up just before lunch on Friday. Today has been a reset day, only my third in 24 days. Whew! A few people asked me last night and today whether my legs are […]

Bicycling

STL2NOLA 22 – Tunica Resorts, MS to Memphis, TN – I Made It!

May 1, 2026 Art Zemon 10 Comments

Art Zemon standing on the Big River Crossing trail over the Mississippi River

I will not leave you hanging. My ride from Tunica Resorts, MS to Memphis, TN completed my bicycle tour of the Mississippi River Trail between St. Louis and New Orleans. I made it! With the completion of this tour of the Mississippi River Trail between S.t Louis and New Orleans, paired with my previous tour […]

St. Louis to New Orleans

STL2NOLA 21 – Clarksdale, MS to Tunica Resorts, MS – Return of the Headwinds

April 30, 2026 Art Zemon 3 Comments

vivid sunset

The ride from Clarksdale, MS to Tunica Resorts, MS was supposed to be a relatively easy day. It is only 2/3 the length of what I had ridden the day before. However, a cold front had arrived and parked on my route, bringing strong headwinds. The ride was brutally hard, coming as it did immediately […]

St. Louis to New Orleans

STL2NOLA 20 – Greenville, MS to Clarksdale, MS

April 29, 2026 Art Zemon 6 Comments

Watermelon Slim performing at the Hambone

The ride from Greenville, MS to Clarksdale, MS was the last long ride of my tour of the Mississippi River Trail between St. Louis and New Orleans. Coincidentally, it was the second to land at exactly 77 miles. It was a fortunately-unfortunately day (do you remember that book?). On balance, the day worked out pretty […]

St. Louis to New Orleans

STL2NOLA 19 – Roy’s Cabins, MS to Greenville, MS

April 27, 2026 Art Zemon 3 Comments

Touring bicycle parked on a bridge over an interstate highway

My ride from Roy’s Cabins, MS to Greenville, MS was short, fast, and completely uneventful. Strong tailwinds and level ground let me average 15.1 MPH. I finished the ride in just over an hour and a half 😀 I took a picture because I felt like I oughta. After I was done riding and checked […]

St. Louis to New Orleans

STL2NOLA 18 – Vicksburg, MS to Roy’s Cabins, MS

April 27, 2026 Art Zemon 1 Comment

Retired Mississippi workboat on display in Vicksburg, MS

I had mentally prepared myself for a long, boring ride through rural Mississippi from Vicksburg, MS to Roy’s Cabins, MS. As has happened consistently on this trip, America delighted and surprised me with non-stop entertainment and amusement. OK, I exaggerate a tiny bit. There were, indeed, hours and hours of pedaling through vast empty fields. […]

St. Louis to New Orleans

STL2NOLA 17 – Port Gibson, MS to Vicksburg, MS

April 25, 2026 Art Zemon 5 Comments

sunken walking trail, worn down about 15 feet below ground level. large trees grow from the side walls. green leaves above

Riding from Port Gibson, MS to Vicksburg, MS was a short 40 miles. The weather forecast was for overcast skies all day. I saw this greyness when I got back onto the Natchez Trace Parkway. I expected nothing better for the rest of the day. On the previous day, I passed a sign at a […]

St. Louis to New Orleans

STL2NOLA 16 – Natchez, MS to Port Gibson, MS

April 24, 2026 Art Zemon 3 Comments

part of the 2 lane Natchez Trace Parkway curve between trees with an overcast sky above

I left Natchez, MS bound for Port Gibson, MS on the Natchez Trace with high hopes. I had read and heard about how beautiful the Natchez Track Parkway is. I am primarily following the Mississippi River Trail for this tour but I intentionally left the MRT for a couple of days so that I could […]

St. Louis to New Orleans

STL2NOLA 15 – Sunset over the Mississippi River

April 23, 2026 Art Zemon 4 Comments

dramatic sunset over the Mississippi River. a barge is about to pass under a bridge

Today was a rest day in Natchez, MS. I had not planned to write a blog post. But the sunset was so beautiful that I just have to share this picture with you. Shot with my Google Pixel 10. Postprocessing with darktable.

Photography, St. Louis to New Orleans

STL2NOLA 14 – New Roads, LA to Natchez, MS – The Long Flat Surprisingly Interesting Ride

April 23, 2026 Art Zemon 1 Comment

view of the Mississippi River from the bridge into Natchez, MS. there is a touring bicycle parked in the center

The ride from New Roads, LA to Natchez, MS was supposed to be long, flat, and boring. Everybody I talked to or emailed with told me to expect nothing but a lot of empty fields and no services. With that in mind, I started with low expectations but was ultimately surprised to find that the […]

St. Louis to New Orleans

STL2NOLA 13 – Baton Rouge, LA to New Roads, LA – I rode the Scenic Highway and the Audubon Bridge

April 21, 2026 Art Zemon 5 Comments

dramatic shot of the east tower of the Audubon Bridge near New Roads, LA. The yellow cables run diagonally up to the tower from the center of the frame. There is a touring bicycle parked in the foreground

You would not believe how scenic the road out of Baton Rouge, LA is, running north toward New Roads, LA. It is so scenic that they actually named it Scenic Highway. I am not kidding. The signs actually read SCENIC HWY. Are you excited? Do you want to see how beautiful it was as I […]

St. Louis to New Orleans

STL2NOLA 12 – Donaldsonville, LA to Baton Rouge, LA

April 21, 2026 Art Zemon 8 Comments

Art Zemon nest to a sign reading TO BIKE ROUTE

Two easy days in a row! I averaged 12.6 MPH over the 50 miles from Donaldsonville, LA to Baton Rouge, LA. I started with an up-and-over the Sunshine Bridge. Once again, thank heavens for patient drivers! And do you remember how I was able to hit 36.6 MPH coasting down the bridge on the trip […]

St. Louis to New Orleans

STL2NOLA 11 – New Orleans, LA to Donaldsonville, LA – Finally, Tailwinds :-)

April 20, 2026 Art Zemon 2 Comments

animated GIF of a large water canon spewing water into the air

It felt good to be back on the bike for the long ride from New Orleans, LA to Donaldsonville, LA. I had had three days off, one in Memphis, TN, one on the train, and one in New Orleans. It had been a luxurious rest that I had never taken before on a tour. Still, […]

St. Louis to New Orleans

STL2NOLA – Changing Route to Meet in the Middle

April 17, 2026 Art Zemon 12 Comments

Art Zemon at a table in the observation car of a train. There is a laptop on the table and green fields outside the window

I named this bike tour St. Louis to New Orleans or STL2NOLA. Three years ago, I rode the Mississippi River Trail north from where I live in St. Peters to Minneapolis. For this tour, I planned to ride south along the MRT to New Orleans. In the first week of riding, I battled brutal headwinds […]

Rants & Raves, St. Louis to New Orleans

STL2NOLA 07 – Wilson, AR to Memphis, TN – A Picturesque End of the First Week

April 16, 2026 Art Zemon 7 Comments

view looking east along the Big River Crossing with a touring bike in the foreground. The river is on the left. The vehicle bridge rises to the right

Mother Nature still had it in for me but I had several things that kept my spirits up on my ride from Wilson, AR to Memphis, TN. First, the forecast was for less-than-brutal headwinds, slower by 5 MPH or more than I had previously battled. Second, my route would eventually turn east, so that the […]

St. Louis to New Orleans

STL2NOLA 06 – Blytheville, AR to Wilson, AR – I Cried “Uncle!”

April 14, 2026 Art Zemon 11 Comments

Art Zemon toasting you with a bottle of beer

This was supposed to be a 58 mile ride south from Blytheville, AR south to Wilson, AR and then west to Marked Tree, AR. But after battling 35 MPH or better headwinds for a third day in a row, and looking at the weather for the next day and seeing that it would be a […]

St. Louis to New Orleans

STL2NOLA 05 – Marsten, MO to Blytheville, AR

April 14, 2026 Art Zemon 9 Comments

concrete arch over US 61 at the Missouri-Arkansas border. the sky in the background is a beautiful orange sunset

Windy! All day. All the way from Marsten to Blytheville. Nothing but M F wind. The gummint even labeled it so. I took this picture just before lunch. Flags start to stand out straight at 32 MPH. Four hours later, it had improved (if “improved” means higher speeds) I was ready to upload the map […]

St. Louis to New Orleans

STL2NOLA 04 – Sikeston, MO to Marsten, MO

April 13, 2026 Art Zemon 5 Comments

Mississippi River from the observation deck in New Madrid, MO under a mostly cloudy sky

Headwinds. I hate headwinds. All day long, 20-30 MPH. With one break for about 10 miles as I rode along the lee side of the levee, east of Marston, MO. But I made it there from Sikeston at the blazing average speed of 9.3 MPH. See, Barry? You need not worry about me breaking any […]

St. Louis to New Orleans

STL2NOLA 03 – Cape Girardeau, MO to Sikeston, MO

April 12, 2026 Art Zemon 6 Comments

Touring bicycle parked on the side of a quiet residential street with towering green trees on both sides

After two long hard days, I got an easier one. Riding from Cape Girardeau to Sikeston was only 47 miles and had way fewer hills to climb. My Garmin clocked the steepest grade at 20.6% but don’t believe that. During that climb, the grade number was jumping all over the place, varying wildly from single […]

St. Louis to New Orleans

STL2NOLA 02 – Ste. Genevieve, MO to Cape Girardeau, MO

April 11, 2026 Art Zemon 4 Comments

Whilst riding from Sainte Genevieve, MO to Cape Girardeau, MO, I had two deeply spiritual revelations: First, rain is God’s bicycle wash. Second, God is personally, persistently concerned that my bike be freshly washed. The weather forecasts (yes, I check more than one) all called for a fine day or riding. There was supposed to […]

St. Louis to New Orleans

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