Cheerful Curmudgeon

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STL2NOLA 20 – Greenville, MS to Clarksdale, MS

April 29, 2026 Art Zemon 6 Comments

The ride from Greenville, MS to Clarksdale, MS was the last long ride of my tour of the Mississippi River Trail between St. Louis and New Orleans. Coincidentally, it was the second to land at exactly 77 miles. It was a fortunately-unfortunately day (do you remember that book?). On balance, the day worked out pretty nicely.

I made an early start out of Greenville. Fortunately, I had tailwinds. Unfortunately, I had overcast skies and empty farm fields. The road was so uninteresting that I devolved to fantasizing about a new life as a videographer. Here is my first attempt. What do you think?

Unfortunately, the day was almost entirely filled with stunning vistas like this.

two lane road with empty fields on both sides and an overcast sky
Such beautiful scenery

Once in awhile, that monotony would be interrupted with a few trees.

two lane road with trees on both sides and an overcast sky
Look! Trees!!

Unfortunately, that was pretty much what I saw for the whole day. Fortunately, there were some interesting tidbits. Just north of Greenville, I rode past the Winterville Mounds Museum. Unfortunately, I was there 20 minutes before it opened. Fortunately, that nudged me to keep riding.

Winterville Native Peoples' mounds
Winterville Native Peoples’ mounds

Unfortunately, there were not many bridges. Fortunately, I found one next to the aspirationally named Lake Vista.

touring bicycle parked on a bridge. there is a lake in the background with cypress trees along the shallows
Lake Vista

Unfortunately, I saw pretty much nothing but empty farm fields. Fortunately, I found this classic water tower. They don’t make ’em like this any more.

old water tower under overcast skies
A classic, outstanding in its field

Right next to the water tower was a BAYER sign that seemed particularly apropos since the Supreme Court just heard arguments in the Glyphosate case.

BAYER warning sign to avoid entering a field due to pesticide applications
Apropos what with the Glyphosphate case before the Supreme Court this week

Fortunately, I rode past some fans who turned out to encourage me.

Art Zemon next to Writes Crossing arch with metal sculpted rooster and longhorn steer beneath
My adoring fans cheering me on

Unfortunately, my reaction might say something about my mental health.

Art Zemon leaning forward to kiss a metal sculpted longhorn steer
Maybe I have been away from home too long

The truly good thing about this ride was that there were real services along the way. At 35 miles, half-way through the ride, I came to a little restaurant and got to sit at a real booth and have lunch indoors instead of snacking by the side of the road. At 63 miles, I came to a convenience store that also had booths so I got a slice of pizza, again sitting indoors instead of snacking by the side of the road.

The weather also treated me well. It looked like rain after the pizza stop so I put on my rain jacket. The rain never materialized so the jacket came off and went back into a pannier. The rain did not start to really come down until I was just a quarter mile from my hostel. I managed to get inside just a bit damp.

The night ended with some wonderful live blues at the Hambone, just around the corner. I even got to hear Watermelon Slim do a song.

Watermelon Slim performing at the Hambone
Watermelon Slim performing at the Hambone in Clarksdale, MS

Click through to St. Louis to New Orleans so read the rest of the blog posts in this series and see a map of the route.

St. Louis to New Orleans

Recent Posts

  • In Gratitude for Your Support May 2, 2026
  • STL2NOLA 22 – Tunica Resorts, MS to Memphis, TN – I Made It! May 1, 2026
  • STL2NOLA 21 – Clarksdale, MS to Tunica Resorts, MS – Return of the Headwinds April 30, 2026
  • STL2NOLA 20 – Greenville, MS to Clarksdale, MS April 29, 2026
  • STL2NOLA 19 – Roy’s Cabins, MS to Greenville, MS April 27, 2026

About Art Zemon

Omni-curious geek. Husband. Father. Photographer. Bicycle tourist. Airplane builder & pilot. Retired computer engineer.

Comments

  1. Marilen Pitler says

    April 29, 2026 at 10:31 am

    Agree, I think much better to save the kiss for Candy! And specially glad to hear that you got to the hostel before the heavy rain especially as you had taken the rain jacket off!!

    Reply
  2. Whitney says

    April 29, 2026 at 11:05 am

    Art- I’ve really enjoyed following your blog. Your first attempt at videography was something to be remembered!! LOL The water tower was definitely a classic. And I loved your fans along the way. Here’s to more “miracle days” for you. Safe travels!

    Reply
  3. Linda K Kusmer says

    April 29, 2026 at 11:05 am

    Wow, pesticides bad enough to post a warning sign! I don’t think the sign will protect any of us, in the fields or not. Glad you found some foliage; the flat fields do get boring. The Hambone looked fun.
    Linda

    Reply
  4. Arlene Clare Goodman says

    April 29, 2026 at 9:06 pm

    Glad to know you found some FANS along the way !

    Reply
  5. Paul James says

    April 30, 2026 at 5:29 am

    This is your best one yet as you pedal and we sit on our butts reading of your adventure in awe!!! Miss ya, be safe. See you soon! Lunch!!!

    Reply
  6. Dave Cohen says

    April 30, 2026 at 7:43 am

    Wonderful post, Art. Interesting that you veered into a fantasy career in videography. I think your trips definitely contain enough expediences and inspiration for a movie …. Whaddya think??

    Reply

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