Cheerful Curmudgeon

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STL2NOLA 01 – St. Louis, MO to Ste. Genevieve, MO – Headwinds & Hills

April 10, 2026 Art Zemon 9 Comments

Art Zemon standing next to his touring bicycle on a blue sky morning

Day 1 done. Starting at the north end of Grant’s Trail in Kirkwood, MO, I visited Jefferson Barracks National Cemetery and then rode down to Sainte Genevieve, MO. Here is my ride.

Starting out on Grant’s Trail was beautiful. It is part of the Great Rivers Greenway so it is nicely maintained and full of joggers, walkers, and other cyclists. I rode past Grant’s Farm and got to say hi to the Clydesdales.

Touring bicycle cleaning against a white rail fence in the foregraound. Clydesdale horses graze in the background. It is a beautiful blue sky day with deep green grass
Stopping to say hello to the Clydesdale horses

Speaking of a well maintained trail, four miles into my ride, I got to an orange “Trail Closed” sign. A couple of bicyclists coming toward me opined that, no, I really would not be able to bike through that section. I took my first detour, out onto roads and hills, rejoining the trail a couple miles farther on. When I got back to the trail, I could see an excavator and a dump truck to my left. Nope, I would not have been able to ride there.

Ten miles into the ride brought me to the sign pointing toward Jefferson Barracks. Second detour. Even though this was going to be a long day, I decided to ride over to the Jefferson Barracks National Cemetery. Standing there, looking at the rows upon rows upon rows of neat white headstones really brings home the magnitude of the service that so many men and women give to America.

As long as I was at the cemetery, I found my friend Ed. He was an amazing man and story-teller. I could listen to him for hours (and I did). Whether he was telling a new story or telling the same one that we had heard several times before, whether it was about someone else or himself, he just had a way of spinning a yarn. We had a nice chat, though this time I did all the talking. I think that he would have liked my bicycle touring adventure.

From there it was just a 50 mile ride down Telegraph road and US-67 to Sainte Genevieve, MO.

Telegraph was busy but had a nice wide shoulder. I never worried about the traffic. And I found a Firehouse Subs for lunch. 😀

a touring bicycle on a bridge over a river with a deep blue sky above
Crossing the Merrimack River

US-67 through Jefferson County was pretty bleak. Two lanes. Occasionally busy. Rarely a rideable shoulder. Even more rarely did I see any good scenery. At least the drivers were all polite. That has been my experience on my previous tours, too. Once away from the city, drivers are almost universally polite even when I am holding them up. And I sure do that, especially when I am climbing a hill at 5 MPH. 😛 If you have been driving a car and stuck behind a bicyclist and you have been patient, thank you!!!!!

Once I crossed into Ste. Genevieve County, the road and scenery got better.

Speaking of headwinds and hills… and headwinds… and hills… and headwinds… and hills. From the moment that I turned onto Telegraph until I pulled up at my hotel at 7:15pm the headwinds varied between bad and miserable. Uphill, which I got to ride a lot of, was the worst. I mercifully got a break on the 2.5 mile climb up the ridge north of Ste. Genevieve. For whatever reason, I did not have any headwinds. They returned after I topped the ridge but I did not care because I got to coast downhill for over a mile. I ended up averaging just 9.5 MPH for the day.

Dinner was Huevos Especialle and, no surprise, I ate it all, including the rice, beans, and tortillas.

Click through to see the map of my ride and more pictures: STL2NOLA 01 – St. Louis, MO to Ste. Genevieve, MO.

St. Louis to New Orleans

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About Art Zemon

Omni-curious geek. Husband. Father. Photographer. Bicycle tourist. Airplane builder & pilot. Retired computer engineer.

Comments

  1. Marilen Pitler says

    April 10, 2026 at 11:04 am

    Fabulous tour so far! So glad we were together the night before you left and I had a chance to give you a hug. Thank you also for your words about being stuck behind a bike rider, I will never be impatient again!

    Reply
  2. Susan Keyes says

    April 10, 2026 at 11:30 am

    Love the travel-log and pictures! Everything is so green and I’m sure it will be even more so as you head south.

    Reply
  3. Steve says

    April 10, 2026 at 11:45 am

    A 17.1% max grade is nothing to sneeze at.

    Reply
    • Art Zemon says

      April 10, 2026 at 12:15 pm

      🤪 don’t believe it. The grade number was jumping ask over the place on that climb. It was more like 10%

      Reply
  4. Arlene Clare Goodman says

    April 10, 2026 at 11:55 am

    So good to hear from you & all your adventures. Be careful. Be well. Be happy.

    Reply
  5. Karen Flanigan says

    April 10, 2026 at 12:33 pm

    I was HOPING you were gonna be able to Stop and see Dad, with the route change(?) You know he is riding with you now! I believe he hitched a ride. I cried knowing you were there. I feel like a foul when I’m up there either hugging his stone or dancing. Loving the pics. Thank you for taking us along with in spirit!!

    Reply
    • Art Zemon says

      April 10, 2026 at 12:39 pm

      Yeah ❤️ Ed and I would have had some real good talks about this tour

      Reply
      • Karen Flanigan says

        April 10, 2026 at 12:56 pm

        You know he tried to teach me to ride a bike. It was a fail. I think about it, it was definitely a sink or swim type of deal. I’m definitely not good at either. lol. I think your gonna see some amazing scenery. One of my other friends is in her RV driving alone to Florida. The ability to have no fear of being alone. Wow

        Reply
  6. Pam Cilek says

    April 10, 2026 at 12:57 pm

    Art- I agree with your thoughts onJefferson Barracks . It is a sobering place to visit and appreciate. Glad you had a good conversation with your old friend. Safe travels and sunny days.

    Reply

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