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STL2NOLA Change of Plans Already

April 6, 2026 Art Zemon 1 Comment

Bicycling from St. Louis to New Orleans ought to be easy. Wheel the bike out of the garage. Turn right. Pedal for a long time. It’s all of the darned details that confound.

Do you remember how, just two days ago in St. Louis to New Orleans, I wrote, “Man plans; God laughs.” Well He’s laughing for sure today. I had planned to cross the Mississippi River from Missouri into Kentucky on the Dorena-Hickmann ferry. It was in dry dock for maintenance over the winter but came out of dry dock in mid-March. It was awaiting a Coast Guard inspection before returning to service. I called the ferry this evening to confirm that it is operating. It is not. It is still awaiting that Coast Guard inspection.

Sigh.

Overview map of a bicycle tour from St. Louis to New Orleans. Text at the bottom includes 2057 miles, 18,138 feet elevation gain, 7.2% max grade
STL2NOLA route

There are no other good options for crossing the river by bicycle in that part of the world, since bikes cannot use the bridges on interstate highways, such as the bridge on I-155 in Caruthersville, MO. So I just spent the last couple of hours crafting a new route from Sikeston, MO to Memphis, TN following the west side of the Mississippi River. I also got to cancel hotel reservations in Tennessee and make new ones in Missouri and Arkansas.

On the plus side, my new route is 18 miles shorter and has 4,000 fewer feet of climbing.

We had a beautiful weather day so I got out for a nice ride through north St. Charles county, MO; across the Golden Eagle ferry; and through Calhoun County, IL.

Old bulldozer with "Bike Crusher" painted on the rusted blade. A touring bicycle is parked in front of it, posing for the photo
Bike Crusher looming over my Masi Giramondo

I found the Bike Crusher so my bicycle had to pose for a picture. I also found some killer hills. Let me just say that “Two Story Hill Road” should be named “Makes You Cry Twice Road.” I wish that I could tell you that I cycled to the top of both hills without getting off and pushing the bike. I only made it to the top of the first. But a wise older cyclist told me early in my career, “There is no hill that I’m not man enough to walk my bike up.” That has gotten me up many a steep grade.

I got many cool photos, including this one. Click here or click the Bike Crusher photo to see the rest of the pictures.

Blurred motorcycle passing a parked touring bicycle in front of green grass in front of a fallow farm field. The sky is a rich blue with a very few small clouds
Two cycles meet on the road

St. Louis to New Orleans

Recent Posts

  • In Gratitude for Your Support May 2, 2026
  • STL2NOLA 22 – Tunica Resorts, MS to Memphis, TN – I Made It! May 1, 2026
  • STL2NOLA 21 – Clarksdale, MS to Tunica Resorts, MS – Return of the Headwinds April 30, 2026
  • STL2NOLA 20 – Greenville, MS to Clarksdale, MS April 29, 2026
  • STL2NOLA 19 – Roy’s Cabins, MS to Greenville, MS April 27, 2026

About Art Zemon

Omni-curious geek. Husband. Father. Photographer. Bicycle tourist. Airplane builder & pilot. Retired computer engineer.

Comments

  1. Marilen Pitler says

    April 7, 2026 at 6:32 pm

    Good for you, change is good, keeps the mind and body going especially when “On the plus side, my new route is 18 miles shorter and has 4,000 fewer feet of climbing.”

    Reply

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